Wool experiment – program of WFP students of the Academy of Fine Arts in Krakow
As in previous editions, this time we were invited to publish as part of the ARTING program. Representing the Faculty of Industrial Design, we are happy about this opportunity, especially since the slogan of this year's edition - Heritage - is related to the educational offer of the faculty, implemented in the Alternative Design Studio.
I have already described the characteristics of the studio many times in detail, but I will only remind you of the most important program assumptions that we implement in our work with students.
The workshop program is based on two fundamental aspects - the native material and spiritual culture from which we draw inspiration, and broadly understood sustainability, with particular emphasis on ecology. We are particularly interested in activities based on local crafts and workshop work. The name of the studio itself, with an alternative name, refers, among others, to: to oppose large-scale industrial design.
In recent years, we have been inviting craftsmen and creators to cooperate with us, from whom we have learned the basics of a given craft, and then, through the design process carried out during our studies, we have developed our own, contemporary solutions. By transposing tradition into modern times, we wanted to show what an inexhaustible source of inspiration our native culture can be. It is also important to save what is original and unique in culture in the era of globalization. I am convinced that with our modest actions, we can contribute to this by building the awareness of design students - future responsible designers.
This brings us to the topic of this year's edition of Arting. Heritage - which includes everything that has been built on the layers of craftsmanship and the production of applied folk art - builds our identity, makes us original and competitive. Both old technologies and materials used in the past are an inexhaustible source of inspiration for us. It is also an alternative to activities that do not fit into sustainable development or pretend to do so. The examples are multiplying, overproduction in the clothing and footwear industries, the creation of consumerist attitudes and behaviors, all this is the result of the current culture in which we are thoughtlessly stuck, believing that we have little influence on the globalization trend and its effects. Designers' response to this state may be activities that refer to a smaller scale. Production of only what is necessary, universal, long-lasting, made to order or in small series, from environmentally friendly materials. It may sound quite utopian, but it also refers to the attitudes that should be created in recipients - consumers. These assumptions, which are difficult to implement in the modern reality of prosperity that surround us, will never cover all the people who make up a given community, but even a change in individuals can give hope.
2. The topic being implemented
In the 2019/2020 semester, the Alternative Design Studio carried out the topic of using wool: Wool - experiment. The topic of wool as a starting material has been discussed many times by designers aware of its advantages, for example the fantastic project implemented by Zamek Cieszyn - "Wool Design. "Carpathians". As the authors of the project wrote: "The aim of the project is to remind people of the potential of the material wool. The project is an attempt to draw attention to the long and rich tradition of sheep grazing and wool production, and also serves to protect the disappearing professions related to wool processing. It is also intended to show that combining the skills of designers with the knowledge and experience of craftsmen - Beskid masters - is an opportunity to create new regional products. Designers from the Visegrad Countries took part in international workshops, where, thanks to cooperation with craftsmen from the Beskid Mountains, they could get to know and learn techniques related to wool processing. 1
Taking up the topic of wool as a starting point for experimental and design considerations was related to the diploma thesis of Sonia Kalandyk and Anna Pielesz. entitled: "Towards Consumption - a model of a model transparent brand of woolen accessories - Runo and a project of educational workshops supporting the activities of the brand - Zowiecowani", carried out in 2019. In this project, the designers drew attention to how much Polish wool is wasted - the lack of a market for this material means that it is burned or buried. These experiences resulted in the continuation of the woolen thread during the next semester in the studio.
One of the elements of the design process is analysis aimed at in-depth exploration of the topic. Together with Joanna Krokosz, who is collaborating with me in the studio this semester, we have planned several activities to support the identification of the topic.
The first point of learning about the topic was a joint trip with students to Cieszyn and a visit to the Castle. There, thanks to the guest of director Ewa Gołębiowska and the involvement of Lubomira Trojan, we had the opportunity to learn about the details of the "Wool Design" project. Carpathians" mentioned above. We were able to look at and touch some of the projects implemented as part of it. We also had the opportunity to see the "Doing Things" exhibition shown at the Castle at that time. Association "NÓW. Nowe Rzemiosło” showed the little-known world of craft work. As the organizers write about the exhibition: “The DO / THINGS exhibition shows the complicated world of craft work. The craftsman is involved in the entire production process, at every stage, from concept through production to promotion and sales. The process is never linear. A craftsman creates with his whole body, using the potential of his movements and senses as well as the relationships he enters into with various materials and tools. The exhibition consists of arranged workshops - weaving, ceramics, leatherwork, bookbinding, as well as stands presenting the world of wood and steel. Each exhibition participant can try their hand at special devices simulating individual activities performed in workshops - working at a loom, pouring porcelain into molds or grinding a knife. Visitors can see how much effort and work a craftsman's daily work requires. Touch the raw materials and materials with which he produces his items and look at the tools he uses for them.” 2
The next element of the trip was a visit to the Koniaków Shepherd Center located near Cieszyn and listening to Józef Michałek's stories about pastoral culture. Mr. Józef Michałek describes himself as a highlander and a practitioner in the field of agricultural management in the Carpathians, in particular the functioning of pastoral farms. For many years, he has been working closely with several dozen shepherd's farms in the area from the Silesian Beskids to the Bieszczady Mountains. He is also the coordinator of the provincial Owca plus program in the Silesian and Żywiecki Beskids, as well as co-organizer of Redyk Karpacki 2013 and many other events activating local communities. He is a well-known and respected expert in pastoral culture and highland culture. His stories, extremely colorful and reflective, made us realize what a great heritage pastoral culture is. The region we visited is still alive with this kind of grazing, although we can rather talk about cultural grazing as a way of conducting herd farming specific to the entire Carpathians. It involves combining sheep from several dozen owners - shepherds - into one large herd for the summer, during which a shepherd and herdsmen take care of them. The sheep stay in the pastures from May to mid-October, then they are given to the sheep farms for the winter lambing season. Grazing is carried out in high mountain pastures or closer to it in grazing areas often belonging to several hundred owners. The sheep graze freely, they are not assigned areas, so they choose the best food themselves, which translates into the quality of the dairy products obtained in this way. 3 From Mr. Michałek's story we also learned about the "problem" of wool, for which there is no market.
On the next day of our trip, we had the opportunity to go to Skoczów and visit the Polkap SA Hat Factory - a company with traditions dating back to 1924. Tracing the entire production process took us 100 years back - wool hats are still produced according to the same methods and on machines from a century ago ! Despite the hard work of the people employed there, this process is beautiful and extraordinary, showing how people managed to process wool on a larger scale, taking into account the properties and advantages of the material, while maintaining respect for it. However, this production is based on imported, more delicate wool, with different properties than those of wool from Polish sheep. Nevertheless, we left Polkap enriched with new experiences, especially those related to the possibility of processing wool to give it specific shapes.
In search of inspiration, we went with the students to the Ethnographic Museum in Krakow, where we had the opportunity to learn about the history of Polish folk culture thanks to Mrs. Agnieszka Marczak, and especially to look at the old techniques and tools of wool processing - fulling mill and spinning machines. The visit to the museum was also an opportunity to browse the museum archives presented by Mrs. Anna Sulich-Liga. We maintained contact with the Ethnographic Museum in Krakow throughout the duration of our classes, min. through consultations with Katarzyna Piszszkiewicz, an expert in folk culture.
In order to enrich our knowledge about wool, we also went to the University of Agriculture in Krakow, where we had the opportunity to meet Prof. Edyta Molik from the Faculty of Animal Breeding and Biology, who shared with us her expert knowledge about sheep breeds, types of wool and other issues related to the breeding of these animals. This experience was supported by direct contact with sheep that are under the care of the University, in a branch located in the picturesque area near Krakow - Bielany. Especially for us, Prof. Edyta Molik prepared a sheep shearing demonstration, and the students took the obtained fleece for experiments.
In practical activities aimed at understanding the essence of wool, we encouraged students to learn various, simple techniques for processing this material. We tested wet and dry felting, and also learned "knitting" and crocheting under the watchful eye of Joanna Krokosz. We also had the opportunity to "examine" the wool under a microscope, analyzing the structure of the wool's hair and its scaling.
In the meantime, students obtained information from available sources and built their own knowledge base about the material and its processing, as well as cultural products related to this issue. In our group of students we had three foreign students - Frenchmen Theo and Benoit and Portuguese Marta. It was interesting for us to learn about the pastoral culture from their countries, from the regions they come from, which is different both in the breeds bred and the surrounding material culture products that accompanied it.
All these experiences led the students to identify individual areas, which they continued to explore and deepen their knowledge in the selected field. All the time, they were also experimenting with the material itself, experiencing and learning about its possibilities.
3. Effects of student activities
We will briefly present the most interesting results of students' work after four months of work on the published topic.
Olga Konik did a very interesting job of experimenting with wool and searching for new material solutions. The result of her work was a set of composite samples with new properties and aesthetic values. The main assumptions concerned the use of materials of natural origin, least harmful to the environment, made with low consumption of non-renewable energy, without the use of specialized equipment at home and without the support of specialized chemical knowledge. The resulting material samples, which are the result of combining wool with substances such as starch, agar-agar, glycerin or paper mâché, are characterized by extraordinary durability. This was achieved through a multidirectional arrangement of wool fibers, creating an internal mesh. The author's additional attempts were related to dyeing wool with natural dyes.
Karolina Filcek is the author of the Puchowce project - insulating modules made of mountain wool. The main idea behind her design was to use the natural tendency of wool fibers to connect. The experiment involved an attempt to connect and model woolen elements without using additional binders or other methods of connecting, e.g. with thread. The result of the work are utility objects - a warming function, made of 100% wool, where the quilting was made using a sewing machine with a felting needle. The project is also an attempt to look at wool from a different perspective, to see new aesthetic values in it, and to appreciate its severity and durability.
In his project, Jakub Gielata focused on the fact that wool is characterized by good sound absorption. He proposed using it to produce acoustic panels, which can be an excellent alternative to artificial materials currently used for soundproofing. The production of panels can be cheap due to the low price of the material, and it is also technologically simple. Wool has a positive effect on the health of users by neutralizing electrosmog and absorbing harmful substances such as formaldehyde. The panels could also be used in places where they often need to be replaced, e.g. restaurants or pubs, and after use, used as a natural fertilizer for plants. Sheep's wool has a rich organic composition that is easily absorbed by plants. This solution not only does not destroy the environment, but also nourishes it.
In his research, Kamil Moroń developed a very interesting concept of wool shaping. First, he wet felted wool and created flat sheets, which were then reinforced by quilting with thread. A network of designed stitch patterns strengthened the wool sheet without allowing it to stretch. The author also attempted to use an additional natural fabric in combination with a woolen sheet and quilt them together. It achieved very interesting effects, both aesthetically and functionally.
Another interesting work is the experiment of Justyna Rola, who became interested in the nutritional properties of wool. She used research showing that wool can be a natural and ecological fertilizer with a high content of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron and sulfur. She conducted a number of experiments justifying the effectiveness of wool in this respect. The result was the design of woolen covers replacing plastic flower pots. It has proven that the wool cover is a natural fertilizer, protects the roots thermally, maintains soil moisture, allows the rooting volume to increase, and facilitates the flow of air into the soil. Its design thus contributes to reducing plastic waste and draws attention to the rich properties of wool.
4. Fleece - diploma thesis by Sonia Kalandyk and Anna Pielesz
When describing our "wool" experience, we must include information about an interesting project by graduates of the Faculty of Industrial Design, related to wool and its importance in our culture. As I mentioned earlier, this project inspired us to take up the topic of wool as an experiment.
The diploma thesis of Sonia Kalndyk and Anna Pielesz In the face of consumption - a model of a model transparent brand of woolen accessories "Runo" and a project of educational workshops supporting the activities of the "Zowcowani" brand. The work was carried out at the Alternative Design Studio under the supervision of Dr. Anna Szwai as part of her master's diploma. In this project, the authors tried to show their critical attitude towards the phenomenon of consumption, and are also looking for a way to shape the awareness and critical attitude of the contemporary and future consumer. They also try to create a good example of an ethical, transparent and responsible brand. The authors were inspired by the pastoral culture, especially that from the Carpathian region, and its values, in particular sincerity, honesty, simplicity and respect for objects. The "Runo" brand products use Polish wool as a raw material, a local material that is currently undervalued and wasted. The aim of the product is to present wool in a new, contemporary version that will allow you to appreciate its value and nobility. This is especially important now, when people prefer to wear artificial "plastic" clothing, produced on a mass scale, without being aware of the extensive negative effects on the environment. The products - handbags and footwear - are fully biodegradable, and their production is based on the felt forming technology of the Polish company Polkap from Skoczów, which has been producing hats using unchanged technology for almost a hundred years. An element supporting the brand has become the "Zowcowani" workshops intended for the youngest recipients - children - to make them aware of what is valuable in culture. Another aim of the workshops was to develop and promote good consumer behavior. The workshops were designed and conducted at the Shepherd Center in Koniaków for a group of school-age children. The authors described their position on the phenomenon of overconsumption as follows:
“We are a group of young designers. Based on our modest but constantly growing experience, we notice that designers' decisions can have a real impact on the environment (natural environment, society). Unfortunately, we also observe that for many people values such as honesty, respect for people and nature, or caring for tradition, culture, identity and the common good are becoming less and less important. In many cases, the reason for this behavior may be excessive consumption, i.e. consumerism. Overproduction and overconsumption of "goods" leads to serious, often irreversible damage to the environment. And the desire for profit is placed above human good and dignity. As young designers, we feel obliged to speak out on such an important issue today as consumerism. Therefore, we decided to try to consider this problem in our master's theses on consumption. We address ourselves to:
– towards unclear product creation processes
– against unfair business practices
– towards manipulative advertising
– towards products of poor quality and value
– in the face of putting profit above human welfare”
The work was included in this year's edition of GRADUATION PROJECTS. For the 18th edition of the review, 289 diplomas were submitted (including 146 2D and 143 3D), of which the jury qualified 30 works for the exhibition.
Wool and its properties
Fiber/properties
Wool is a raw material obtained primarily from sheep, but also from llamas, alpacas, vicunas, goats (Kashmir and Angora breeds), camels and Angora rabbits. 4 Fibers of particular species and breeds of animals differ in thickness, length, strength, elasticity and crimp.
Clothing made of wool is characterized by good air permeability and excellent temperature regulation . Merino wool has been successfully used for years in specialized clothing, e.g. ski underwear, but is also recommended for people suffering from atopic dermatitis. According to research, merino wool worn on bare skin allows you to create a specific microclimate that allows you to stabilize humidity and temperature between the skin and clothing, positively affecting the reduction of skin lesions. 5 Wool is a hygroscopic fiber, which means that it easily absorbs moisture - up to 35 percent of its own weight. It keeps the skin surface dry, inhibits the growth of bacteria and unpleasant odors (6) .
Research on woolen clothing conducted by Woolmark and the Nielsen brand shows that woolen clothes are the most durable, are washed less frequently and with due care, in accordance with the instructions on the label. The life cycle of products made of wool is relatively long, wool clothes are given away or sold to new owners (7) .
Blankets and pillows made of wool improve sleep quality by ensuring constant body temperature and adequate ventilation . Wool products are recommended for people suffering from rheumatism, arthritis, inflammation of muscles and ligaments, diseases of the musculoskeletal system, post-traumatic damage to peripheral nerves, circulatory system diseases and disturbances in thermoregulation. Wool bands are used in physiotherapy to warm up joints
and reducing muscle tension. They can be used before or after physiotherapy to maintain the therapeutic effect of exercise. Wool fibers stimulate sensory nerve endings located on the surface of the skin, increasing blood flow. Touching the wool produces a slightly anesthetic effect (8) .
In ecological construction, sheep wool is used to insulate wooden buildings . It is cheaper to produce, so it is a very good replacement for the commonly used mineral wool. Wool, as an insulating layer, accumulates air, cooling the room in summer and heating it in winter. It absorbs moisture and stabilizes the conditions, preventing the building structure from drying out or getting damp.
It is a very good acoustic insulator and is often used in the form of panels to soundproof offices and public spaces. It can also help reduce electrosmog (electromagnetic radiation produced by devices).
Another important feature of wool is fire resistance . Wool ignites only at 550 degrees Celsius, which is why wool is often used to produce specialized clothing, such as firefighter uniforms or clothing for rally drivers. Wool is also used in upholstered items in means of transport, especially in airplanes and subways. Armchairs made of wool do not allow fire to spread.
Wool is a biodegradable material, when buried in the ground it decomposes after a few years, supplying the soil with valuable nutrients. Moisture
and high temperature promote faster decomposition. Research has shown that a mixture made from 25% waste wool, 50% grass clippings and 25% waste horse mix provides optimal composting results on a large scale. 9 Production waste from wool processing companies can be a valuable component of compost.
Lanolin is a substance produced by glands located on the surface of sheep's skin. It has a protective function and protects the animal against weather conditions. The amount of lanolin produced depends on the age of the animals (the most lanolin is found in merino wool, the least in karakul wool). It is used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries and is an ingredient of medicinal ointments and creams (10) .
Wool processing
Industrial methods of processing wool depend on the production process of a specific product. The production of wool for hats is slightly different, for blankets and for clothing. Some of the elements of this process are similar, such as cleaning and carding. Below is the sequence of stages in the production of a blanket made of wool.
Clipping
Sheep are sheared twice a year, usually in spring and autumn. Most haircuts are done manually using electric shavers. Work is currently underway to introduce the possibility of sheep shearing by specialized robots that scan the animal before shearing.
Sorting
Wool is sorted into groups depending on its origin. The wool from the animal's sides and arms is most valued and is used to produce clothing. Wool from the legs and belly is used to make carpets
Cleansing
Wool works in soap, a side effect of washing wool is the production of lanolin.
Carding
Combing the wool with metal brushes allows it to be combed and the fibers arranged in one direction, which is necessary for further processing. The end result of carding is worsted wool.
Spinning
Worsted hair is divided into thin strands. Twisted together they form yarn. The yarn usually consists of two, three or four strands.
Dr. Anna Szwaja - graduate of the Faculty of Industrial Design of the Jan Matejko Academy of Fine Arts in Krakow. Diploma under the supervision of prof. Adam Gedliczka in 2004. Since graduating, she has been working at her home faculty in the Alternative Design Studio, where until 2009 she was an assistant to prof. Mieczysław Górowski. After defending his doctorate in 2015 under the supervision of prof. Marii Dziedzic works as an assistant professor. Apart from teaching, he is involved in graphic and product design as well as photography.
Joanna Krokosz, M.A. - product designer, lecturer and PhD student at the Faculty of Industrial Design of the Academy of Fine Arts. Jan Matejko in Krakow. He deals with universal design, with particular emphasis on the needs of the elderly, children and disabled people. He believes in the idea of disseminating projects on an open source basis, which allows for increasing the availability of well-designed products.